Its 4 am and I am driving on a surface that looks more Martian than that of our planet. The baked, grey earth over which we are driving is the Rann of Kutch. The stars are shining overhead in an ink black sky. We have no maps, no road signs or signals, no GPS coordinates…
A sip of coffee in Coorg….
Kodaimelanadu or Kodagu or Coorg: the name itself conjures up images of verdure – gushing cascades, babbling brooks, green hills, gorgeous dales, gurgling rivers all together flaunting the munificence of Mother Nature. Oh! Add coffee plantations to it. A compulsive coffee drinker like me cannot find a better place than Coorg, for a sip. After…
Stok Palace: An exquisite miniature of Ladakh
It was mid-afternoon when we arrived in Leh. The temperatures soared to 30 degrees, a very unlikely for Ladakh in early August, but the temperature was hardly a factor to deter tourists from visiting the quaint little museum of the Ladakhi royal family in the Stok Palace. As we checked in, taking an eyeful of…
Dawki: A river paradise
I was a little undecided between going to Dawki or making a long trip to Tura. And my Airbnb host in Shillong had almost decided to convince me to head to Dawki. He got his phone and scrolled down to show me pictures of Dawki. An established photographer himself, he didn’t have to put much…
Inside the sacred forests of Mawphlang
In every turn in Meghalaya nature has a story to tell. Amongst the brooding mountains and the fiery skies, living root bridges, and natural swimming pools, the dark Khasi forests have a completely different story to tell. Among the gushing rivulets, whispering trees, and sacrificial stones, there are cultural secrets and sermons that have been…
The monoliths and old tales of sacrifices from Nartiang
A magical waterfall straight out of Kipling’s pages – that’s how my friend Brad described Krangshuri falls. His words were enough to transport us to that dreamy landscape. And his words inspired a lot of imagery in my mind. One thing about Meghalaya is that there is never an overdo of waterfalls. After all, you…
Magical sunrise and a feast at Denzong Regency
The worst part of Sikkim is the tiring journey from Bagdogra airport to Gangtok. And while all along our way one is accompanied by the majestic River Teesta storming its way through the heavy boulders; its thunder cry noising out the traffic of NH 31 – the traffic and then the pitiable condition of the…
The pristine Pelling
Trust me, in Sikkim, you desire nothing more than clear views of the Kanchenjunga range. From the time one arrives in Gangtok, one can feel the pull of this snowcapped, lofty range. You wake up in the morning to capture the orange hue of the rising sun over the mountains and in the evening the…
The magical ride to Yumthang valley
I could not visit the Yumthang valley when I came to Sikkim six years back. That thought lingered somewhere, and that wish to be here in a magical valley strewn with zillions of wildflowers swinging and swaying along a gorgeous riverside, remained. And while I didn’t make it in the spring which is touted as…
Sikkim secrets: Learning to slow down in Kewzing
I took a detour off the main road and followed a narrow, slippery trail that cuts through a forest of chestnut, birch, and other deciduous trees. The narrow trail went on, and I continued believing in my instincts and the instructions of the locals who had led me here. At some time, a soft voice…
On the trail to Chalal from Kasol
As I reached Kasol I realized that it’s no more a dreamy small town where mornings start with mushroom thukpas and evenings extend to accommodate endless rounds of ginger tea with lavish displays of cakes from the German bakery. It has turned into a busy, touristy town, but still holding onto that quintessential Himalayan village…
The trinity of love and charm: Kalga, Pulga, and Tulga
One of the most amazing things about traveling to Himachal is the small villages that dot the valleys. And each village is packed with its customs and stories. I was in Parvati Valley which has steel for such stories. Nestled in the Kullu valley, cut by the enchanting Parvati river, the area follows some old…
Manikaran Sahib: A confluence of faith and ideas
Everyone has a reason to come to Manikaran Sahib. Often it depends on what religion one follows. For me, it was about finding a town by the river, in the lap of the mighty Himalayas, and a confluence of faiths, customs, and ideas. The history of Manikaran dictates that the town was touched by both…
Oh my gosh!! Tosh
I feel I am getting more immersed and intense at my ‘do nothing’ philosophy of holidaying. I have started to hate too much activity in my holidays, and settle in someplace where I can lounge in the tranquility, soak myself with the local lifestyle, and breathe in the moments. The holidaying period would only include…
The sand dunes in Ladakh, Hundar
And while even thought of Ladakh is exhilarating enough, nothing excited me more than the idea of seeing the sand dunes at that altitude, or just taking my time off from the camera and notes to go-karting, or ride the Bactrian camels. And saying that Hundar touched me deeply and in many ways would rather…
The orchard of charm in Nubra Valley
Every turn is a new picture in Ladakh. And it is amazing how landscapes and cultures can change in a few hundred kilometers in this cold desert. The walls of dramatic mountains that hem in Ladakh make for an unforgettable landscape. And up North-West the landscape changes dramatically to an austerely beautiful enclave cradled by…
Encharmed by the Pangong Tso
Long drives in the high altitudes of Ladakh evoke many thoughts. And while your body acclimatizes and deals with the lack of oxygen, your mind over-works and bombilates with thoughts and emotions. It was quite early in the morning that we had set off for the Pangong lake. With some 180 kilometers from Leh, it…