Pragpur, a quaint little village
in Himachal Pradesh’s scenic Kangra Valley, became the first village in India
to be branded a heritage village. Pragpur was founded in the late 16th century
by the Kuthiala Soods in memory of Princess Prag Dei of the Jaswan royal
family. With its winding lanes, wooden slate-roofed houses, the village looks
nothing less than a miniature painting set on an aisle. As the story goes, in
the early 19th century the prosperous Kuthiala Sood community arrived and
settled here. These merchants who were well exposed to architecture and arts
outside the area, returned to Pragpur to build buildings, chateaus and mansions
in architectural styles they observed outside. With their efforts, Pragpur
gradually transformed into a grand display of immaculate beauty and spectacular
architecture that evolved as a perfect blend of Portuguese, Rajput and British
styles. This reminded me of the unique way in which Shekhawati
architecture of the havelis, cenotaphs, and stepwells has
evolved, with designs
taken from different cultures the traders got exposed to.
To experience the charm of
Pragpur, take a walk through the village. The square shaped water pond, in the
middle of the village, will lure you to spend some time around it. A village
walk introduces you to the architectural beauty strewn across Pragpur. Built
before 1868, the Taal is in the center of the village and is surrounded by
several old community structures like the Nehar Bhawan, Naun, and Dhunichand
Bhardial Serai. The village market by the pond is a bustling place and has an
unlikely charm missing from most villages. At a stone throw away distance is
the Lala Rerumal’s haveli, with elements of Mughal-styled architecture, and has
a large water reservoir. Ancient temples, courtyards, even age-old windows and
doors with intricate carvings, leave an everlasting impression on the
travelers. Most of these houses exhibit fancy tile-work, ornamental towers, and
stained glass windows. It’s like a world merged with old Himachali
architecture, where you see an overuse of wood and pillars. Interestingly, the
rooftops of these buildings have gables and slanted slopes, which is quite
unique considering it seldom snows in the Himalayan foothills. The slanted
slopes is a ubiquitous feature in the uphill Kangra and Kullu valley. The
village committee is entrusted with restoring and conserving these
Five days on and Spiti had been a
promised traveler’s delight. These had been days full of explorations,
welcoming smiles, giggles, and developing a bond with Spiti. The hospitality of
Kaza had taken me over. All you need to do is to break the ice with a smile,
say ‘Juley’ (greetings and respect), and engage in a conversation with a local,
or best a monk in a monastery. From religion, local lore to culture and
history, you can crack up any topic with monks. Kaza is a cultural potpourri
for Spiti valley. Every morning village folks from Langza, Mud, Kibber, and
Cheecham, come in the morning bus, to do their daily business in Kaza. The same
bus leaves in the evening. This is how normal days go. Being close to the bus
station, I was witness to these shades, day begins early here and continues
On this day, I had decided to
take the route heading towards Langza, the fossil village; Hikkim, with the
unique distinction of hosting Himachal Pradesh’s highest polling station as
well as the world’s highest post office; and Komic, world’s highest village
connected with a motorable road. The journey to the villages is short, but not
without its own challenges. Even though, the scenery weans away all pain of the
journey, the benign neglect of the development of road infrastructure is hard
to ignore. Half the journey is covered on dirt tracks, but in Spiti, there can
be no better inspiration to travel than the scenery. I had decided to go to Langza,
and then trek from there to Komic and then downhill to Hikkim. The open spaces
along the way promise an endless supply of solitude, and the concoction of
solitude, serenity, and the feeling of being with oneself lures travelers like
Signs of life in Langza
When you drive towards Rangrik
from Kaza there comes a bifurcation, one road takes you to Key and Kibber, and
the other goes to Langza – Komic – Hikkim. Langza is unique in its own way.
Popularly known as the fossil village, Langza is for science buffs looking for
signs of early life, and the great geological event of a collision of tectonic
plates of India and Eurasia, which gave rise to the mighty Himalayas. The
circular rings like fossils are signs of prehistoric marine life, of a time when
this land was a sea. Due to tectonic movements, the India plate shifted and
thus the Himalayas arose. But even if you aren’t looking for fossils, the
mesmerizing scenery at Langza wouldn’t fail to captivate you.
Even before entering the village,
the grand Buddha statue overlooking the village captures your attention. The
sight of Lord Buddha sitting in the lap of mighty Himalayas all around is a
sight to behold. You starting enjoying Langza from the moment you take a steep
turn to reach it. The road ascends fast, and from your window, you could watch
valley getting deeper, slopes getting steeper and the peaks growing
shorter as your altitude begins to match theirs. And then gradually, the peaks turn to flat
plateau, absurdly green for the barren brown landscape, that had accompanied
all along the journey. The terrain looked like a verdant carpet of green, a
piece of heaven, tended by elves, for the gods who would descend here on some
bright, starry night. And from the edge of this green carpet, arise a piece of
earth, a near flat, vertical wall, with snow-covered crown, dominating
everything around. This is the Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak (the literal meaning
of the name of this peak is “Blue moon in the sky”).
In the lap of this 6500m peak
(highest in Spiti region) peacefully sits the village of Langza, a hamlet of
some 50 houses skirted with lush green fields. In such a beatific setting,
moments are never rare. Even though I spent nothing more than an hour in the
scenic village, I felt a huge calling here.
The highest nest, Komic
I made a move from Langza towards
the highest motorable village of Komic. A short two-three hours of trek take you
to Komic. Alternatively, you can always take the road. Perched at 4500m, it is
among the highest inhabited villages in the Himalayas. A board saying, ‘welcome
to the highest homestay’ welcomes you to the village. On one side stands the
Komic monastery overlooking the lush green fields. Opposite to the monastery is
tucked a cute café (ah, world’s highest café) like some fairytale romance. From
the monastery, I looked at the village. A total of 10 houses. Upon inquiry, I
came to know some 60 people live in the village.
Legend has it that due to a long
drought, the monks of Komic decided to shift the monastery to the nearby low
lying Hikkim village. But the grand statue of Mahakal couldn’t be moved. The
entire monastery was moved, but the statue of Mahakal remained adamant, with
all but one monk. In 1975, a massive earthquake struck Spiti which completely
destroyed the new monastery set in Hikkim. The monastery at Komic didn’t suffer
much damage. Thereafter all the monks returned to the Komic monastery.
The road from Kaza leading to
Komic is a steep winding uphill climb. It is both a seasoned dream and a
rookie’s nightmare, as the lack of oxygen and change in weather becomes
palpable. First-time travelers need to be cautious, and it is always advisable
to keep Komic towards the end of the itinerary. The village is housed in a
bowl-shaped depression, distinctly split into two parts, the lower with a small
cluster of houses and upper with a cluster of larger houses. A hillock above is
housed the Komic monastery, painted in beautiful bright colors.
When in komic, take a detour
around, it’s not difficult to find fossil rocks. Pencil in some time to be at
the world’s highest café, don’t forget to order Spiti sandwiches. The service
is quick, and taste, just like the scenery, beyond expectations.
Though there may not be a huge
list of to-do in these villages, their seclusion is enchanting. And a thought
on life at these heights and so off the road villages is inspiring. I broke
into a small talk with a local, who took me to his mud-house, offered Spiti’s
butter tea, and started telling me about life in the village. Summers is the
month to work and save, while in winters, one can only be indoors, enjoying the
reserves of the summers. Still, winters are something the villagers await for.
There could be a surreal, romantic charm in temperatures, dipping below -20
degrees. There should be, and probably a prosaic feeling in the white splendor
of snow, one that can only leave us to shudder, but becomes the sole companions
of these villagers. I could only smile at the thought, life shapes up in
different ways and people have evolved to live in these extremes.
On a postcard pilgrimage to
Taking leave from Komic, one can
go downhill to Hikkim, the highest post-office. Fortunately, I had got a lift
from there to Kaza. Yes, such plans work in Spiti. The walk to Hikkim wasn’t
tough, but it went steeply downhill. The Hikkim post office was opened on
November 5, 1983, and Rinchen Chhering—has been the branch postmaster here
since inception. This conspicuous Spitian landmark is also his home, and in a
place with no communication channels, works as the only means to communicate
with the other world. It is this place, where monks from Komik monastery
receive their letters from other spiritual centers, some as far as Tibet and
Bhutan, where farmers open their savings account, and tourists like me send
postcards, to hold by as a memory from the Spitian highs.
The journey of the post from here
is as interesting as the place itself. Every morning, two runners take turns in
delivering mail on foot from Hikkim to Kaza. From Kaza, the emails are taken by
bus to Reckong Peo, onward to Shimla, further by train to Kalka, and then
loaded on a bus to Delhi, from where it is further distributed. Following the
long-held tradition, I too sent myself two postcards from Hikkim. And as I
write this piece, I can look at those two tokens of love, sent from the land,
every shade of which, leaves you enchanted.
It felt there that the azure blue skies and empty expanse around had joined hands to deliver an inviting feeling of seclusion. There are subtle signs of authenticity and rusticity in life at these heights. The age-old ways of farming, the plain mud and stone houses, painted white on the exteriors and beatifically adorned with colored flags, and a life seemingly frozen in time: simple, and in inviting synergy with the habitat. With every step, I felt myself closer to this land and was unraveling the deeper meanings of life, hidden in the vast barrens of Spiti. And nothing was more loud and clear than living in synergy with nature. I made my way back to Kaza, having grown richer in the philosophy of life, memories, and pictures that would form the décor of my walls to teach me how big and beautiful life is, and how less have I explored it. As we returned, we halted to have a look at the old monastery, destroyed during the earthquake. I searched in the mountains to look at the Komic monastery one more time. A story a time leaves in the midst of a puzzle called faith and belief. Who to believe, and what to take as real? In the land called ‘lands of God’ by Mark Twain, everything seems real. Perhaps its only faith that can make you a part of this vastness.
This was my fourth day in Spiti valley, and with every turn, I was getting more acclimatized and acquainted with this middle land. I didn’t have to spend hours to learn that this cold desert, a heady mix of barren mountains, unexpected bursts of green fields, and deep gorges formed by the fierce Spiti River, is also a melting pot of cultures. My visit to Tabo and Dhankar, had made me intelligent of what to look for. The signs of Hinduism in Kinnaur, had been gracefully replaced by those of Buddhism, and wouldn’t be found till Keylong. I knew my way from Kaza, the last stop on my Spiti journey, and also the administrative capital of Spiti. I were to spend three days here, hoping from one village to the other, looking for my cultural murals, one monastery to the other, one story to the story.
I reached Kaza, from Dhankar, a one hour journey, bringing you from a
village perched on the top of a mountain to one by the river. The weather, with
the clouds almost descended upon us, made the journey all the more prosaic. The
proximity of Spiti to Tibet, has ensured this martian landscape to be dotted
with Gumpas and monasteries, the sheer beauty of which, never fails to amaze
you. It won’t be hard to find one in the middle of the road, and vehicles
taking a full circle of it in reverence. For the next three days I was to be in
Kaza to cover some of the most secluded and prettiest villages. And some
crowned with their tags of the ‘highest’ and the ‘largest’.
By the time I reached Tabo, I had
promised myself to completely ditch the word ‘planning’. There was no need of
it, I was in Spiti, and I wanted to remain spell-bound by this ‘time wrap’. And
in the course of staying a little long in Tabo to enjoy the morning sun and my
host’s famous pancakes, I happened to miss the only bus to Kaza. But Spiti is a
land of hope against all the hardships; and in hope to get a hitch-hike to
Schichlling, I took the road. Spiti is unpredictable, and travelling here can’t
be a time-table job. Thankfully I was travelling light, keeping enough space in
my backpack to pack memories back home.
In such a hospitable place,
hitch-hiking is quite possible, and even waiting or walking a few kilometers doesn’t
hurt. The pace of life here is slow, and people warm and hospitable. After walking
for a few kilometers, passing villages with a population board stating “50
souls”, I got a ride to Schichlling. Next on my Spiti trail was Dhankar
monastery, and a trek to the Dhankar Lake perched high in the mountain. I
reached Schichlling in about half an hour. From there my journey was another
ten kilometers uphill to the Dhankar village. From downhill, Dhankar looked
like a village created by stacking some matchboxes, on a craggy brown hill, and
two rivers merging with each other in the foothill. The 1000-year-old Dhankar,
perched precariously on jutting rocks on a mountaintop. The Dhankar monastery is
listed among the 100 most endangered monuments in the world by the World Monuments Fund. The old monastery is on a constant fight with the
elements of nature. While it’s still in good terms with snow, and an
unimaginable amount of it, it is losing battle against increasing and
disturbing patterns of rainfall, a fall-out of global reality of climate
change. The signs of heavy rain, the day before, were evident everywhere in
washed away roads, and wet mountains.
An eight hour journey, on the
world’s most dangerous roads, can be both tiring and exhilarating. But the
views of the craggy peaks whooshing past the window, the spectacle of a
turquoise ribbon of river cutting through the valley, hundreds of falls and
streams merging into the river, and the bends taking you from one slice of
paradise to the other, are a prize worth the madness of being on the world’s
deadliest roads. And while the bus past these, nicely framed picture perfect
frames, my mind weaved a story of a land of Buddhist Gompas doubling up as
landmarks, prayer flags fluttering, mummies sitting still in monasteries, azure
blue skies and stars dancing in galaxies at night, and above all the cultural
mysteries it has held over time. I wanted to know how local people live their
life here, holding natural and mystical mysteries for centuries. A land that
wasn’t open for people till 1970s, a land tucked between the Himalayas and the
Tibet, a land that has been called ‘world within a world’ by Mark Twain; I
wondered how that land would be.
Below flows the roaring Satluj river, snaking its way through the valley, above stands the mighty Kinnaur Kailash as a royal guard, and tucked between these two forces of nature, is the small hamlet of Kalpa. No sooner the bus brakes mooned, wheels screeched, and I got down and framed the first frame of this tucked away paradise, than I fell for its idyllic setting. No doubt the petrifying valleys and heart-warming culture had been a calling of many a travelers. A short, inviting walk through the main road, is enough to warm your heart. Studded with wooden houses, and apple orchards on sides, and uncountable smiles to greet you, Kalpa seems a village taken out of Nora Roberts novel.
Never thought a village so small that it can fit in one wide frame of camera lens, can have so many eternal bounties to offer
The first image from the village, that is bound to find a special corner in your heart, is of the Shivling peak (Kinnaur kailash) that rises over 20,000 feet. The peak stands as a royal guard to the village. This idyllic setting of the village, makes one feel that one is sitting in the lap of the holy mountains. Continue reading →
Sunlight glinted on the hill-tops, and valleys were half dark and half lighted. Trees yawned as morning hue woke them from their slumber. The still breeze carried an indescribable purity and sweetness, laden with an aroma from the virgin forests. At a distance was this comfortable looking little town extending uphill and eastward. A steep four-five kilometers drive from Mussourie brought us to Landour, a British raj relic, a town, draped by an old fashioned aura, numerous colonial-era bungalows with slanting roofs, brick arches and stone walls, and silence that was interrupted only by the gusts of invigorating cold breezes. We glided over the shining track, going past the little houses with red thatched roofs and backyard, waving to the welcoming villagers who were off to collect the firewood, school kids and the typical heavily built, bush bearded, leather-jacketed Harley Davidson guys to reach the smiling Landour.
Life seemed to be taking a deep breath in the town; the natural beauty topped with reds and greens of roofs, extending a colonial reminiscence. We were passing through narrow roads that could barely fit two cars at a time. The driver was delicately maneuvering the car through these needle hole sized turns. Occasionally I had my head peering out of the car window to sap in the pure, cool breeze. There hung a certain, zeal in the breeze, flowing in gay abandon, like a harbinger of good times.
Taking another turn through Landour’s old bridle path, passing interesting sights and the famous St. Paul’s Church, with the endless stretches of pines and willows and the mountain sun filtering through the threshold of trees to accompany us; we reached one of the landmarks of the town, Rokeby Manor, our haunt for the next three days. And the property was everything that could have been expected; colonial touch taking you back to the era of 1840s when it was built, lovingly renovated rooms with stone walls and wooden floors, and cutely tucked gardens overlooking the valley. Continue reading →
Pushkar hung in my thoughts like a dream. After having seen several of my plans for Pushkar get cancelled, this time I tried some serious nudging on myself; to be there at the sacred moment of Pushkar camel fair. The very idea of camels and traders journeying across the vast deserts of Rajasthan in a time immemorial fashion to meet, socialize, and trade, found an inkling in me. Pushkar is a complete teleportation from the urbane life to a rustic one, from economy that survives on cars to one where camels form an integral part. The romantic image of camels loping across the desert in Rajasthan, enthused me to plan the plan I had waited for so long.
Pushkar has a magnetism of its own – it’s very unlike the way one imagines Rajasthan. Fair or not, it will never cease to sweep you off your feet. The town celebrates the riddles of life, throughout the year. Pushkar made me rejig the concept of time; moments into Pushkar and a feeling that everything has been stalled, got me. The antiquity of the town is inspiring. The everyday world of Pushkar does more than inspire and encourage well-being, it makes the sordid routine seem novel.
I was in Pushkar, at the annual camel fair, indisputably, the best time of the year to be in. Everywhere I turned, I could hear music, see a riot of colours, feel the exuberance of the fair and sense Pushkar’s ability to engage with tourists pouring from world over; and then there was the rustic hue, atmospheric shots of herders and their camels, trekking past the deserts. Calling the Pushkar fair just magnetic, would be an understatement. It is far more than that, it takes you out of your cocoon, into a world unknown and untraversed. One eyeful of Pushkar, and the reason that made it a favorite among foreign tourists, becomes discernible. Pushkar is everything most Indian cities are not; it’s sleepy, calm, inviting and engaging; a tell-tale of a town that has thrown off its provinciality.
Hot air baloon is a new addition in Pushkar Fair
In the autumn, as the moon starts its journey for the brightest night of the year, tribes from all over Rajasthan, stream out of their ethnic lands, arid landscapes, stubbly fields, thickets, scrubs, and deserts; trudging with their beasts, draped in multi-colored turbans, travelling with rivulets of kaleidoscopic caravans. The women of the tribes, come draped in their gypsy bright skirts swaying in autumn winds like daffodils, sporting bright silver and bronze jewelry rivaling the smoldering sun and big, arresting bindi on forehead; engrossed in little chats. And at certain distance are scattered groups of travelers, some from different corners of the country and more from abroad, lost in the little riddles and proses of this town.
Pushkair fair brings them all together.
Pushkar, the Brahma’s land
Pushkar, is a legendary town, stretched around the three sacred lakes, and legends say Lord Brahma, the Creator of the Hindu Trinity, while flying over this land, had dropped three petals from the lotus he carried. The three petals became the three lakes of Pushkar. Some say the creator landed on this auspicious land and performed a holy ritual. Others take the tale a little further and claim that Lord Brahma married a tribal girl in Pushkar. Ever since, people gather in thousands, at this holy place to bathe and worship on the anniversary of the Creator’s sacrifice.
Regardless of legendary tales, Pushkar has grown, both as a colourful animal fair and an international tourist destination. While traders throng here to trade cattle, sheep, camels and thoroughbred horses; for tourists, it’s an escape from their world with an added flavor of good deal of craft shopping and café hopping.
A colony of backpackers
The moment our car breast the hill, magic unfolded. It was early morning, wind carried the chill of the night and the sun was in a sleepy state. In the distance the three lakes glinted like jewels, and a little further, through dust and haze, campfires twinkled. We maneuvered our way through the narrow alleys, the morning markets, the hubbub of a touristy town, making our way towards the hotel. And as we drove, a part of us mingled with the razzmatazz of the place. It seemed like a shifting kaleidoscope of emotions, trying to find a balance somewhere between the serenity of the place and the ordered chaos of the fair. The central area of the fair was crowded with visitors thronging the shops and eateries, while the herders and traders took the plains, focusing on their business.
The colonization of backpackers have made this a model town: a place created by and for the tourists, with multicuisine eateries, chic cafes, schools of yoga, massage, Indian music and dance, shops selling herbal cosmetics, perfumes and the inexplicable clothing that characterizes the backpacker diaspora. And it’s all there, shops feasting with colourful textiles, silver jewelry and crafts, town lost in backpacker’s thoughtless party reverie, locals engrossed in their daily chores playfully mixed with spiritual detours, houses with open courtyards with murals to keep you on a click frenzy mode, nomads exhibiting their ravishing dreadlocks and loincloths, and a gastronomic culture that has evolved due to mixing of myriad of cultures and aspirations. The rooftops of medieval buildings with exquisite jharokhas have been turned into cafes, offering new vignettes of the lake with its ghats, the sprawl of temples and the town around the sacred lake. Some ancient courtyards have been turned into meditation centers. It’s suggested to keep enough time on hand to pencil in such moments, after all everything in Pushkar moves at its own leisurely pace. From temple to temple, take your time to discover the cultural and spiritual nuances of the place.
I often ditched the fair to be by the lake, often joined by a group of backpackers with their musical instruments. These are not rare moments, this is routine in Pushkar. And be it any moment, there’s always a spirit of gay abandon, hanging in Pushkar.
Pushkar has evolved as an offbeat and ethnic shoppers paradise
The divine in Pushkar
In the evenings, as the sun slips into the valleys, the lake comes alive with the flickering of the lamps during the scenic aarti. The Pushkar fair ends on a full moon night, and thankfully, I was there, to bear witness to his heavenly spectacle. The ambience with lights twinkling in the twilight was ethereal. Drumbeats, clash of symbols and chiming of bells herald the aarti on the final day i.e. on Purnima (full moon). Lamps are lit and placed all-round the Ghat. This was probably the first time, I was coming in terms with the spirituality of Pushkar. I had seen its jamboree, its gay abandon, the way it has engaged with all cultures and left a part of it in them, and the way it has shaped itself to be a hot tourist destination, but this was different. This was Pushkar, the way it has been for all these centuries, when the travellers had not arrived and it still carries that air.
What else to do
Apart from all the spiritual, culinary, musical, and shopping adventure, you can hire a bike and go to Ratnagiri Hill for sublime sunset views over the lake. Do a one-and-a-half-hour hike up to Savitri Devi Temple. Most times of the year, the skies are fabulous canvasses of delight.
This wasn’t a well-planned tour; last minute tickets, itinerary gone through in haste, no pre-research done and entire plan charted out on way to the railway station. My first impression of Nagaur, as I landed the next morning, was that of a quaint town. I took a corner in that humble station and rolled my eyes to detail out every corner, to assure me that I was still in this century. ‘The town looks ancient’ I said to myself, coming out of the station. This was Nagaur, in the arid northwest of India’s largest state, Rajasthan. Bordering the Thar desert, most of the cityscape has been painted royal yellow with a magnificent Fort standing in the middle of the city; the city walls echoing the tales from time immemorial and the fort speaking of tales of glory and valour.
Landscape view of the Nagaur Fort
I was soon drawn into a history lesson by my chauffeur as we drove to the hotel. A major draw for anyone seeking an immersion in courtly history, Nagaur grew from a strategic trade point to the centre of Rajputana power in its hey days. Naguar lived under the influence of conquerors from vastly different cultures. Over time it gained a distinct Rajput-Mughal architectural design as gardens, temples and fountains were added. Passing through the town is like passing through an age frozen and wrapped in time. The city seems as unmoved by changing times. The 4th century Ahichhatragarh Fort, standing in the middle of the city, was originally built by the Nagavanshi clan (hence the name that means ‘Fort of the Hooded Cobra’!) and rebuilt in the 12th century by the Ghaznis to include palaces and mosques. The Nagaur Fort epitomizes the city more than anything else. Continue reading →
Stories abound in this fort. Wrapped in history, Chittorgarh Fort has been a textbook lesson on valour, honor, sacrifice and never to fade aura of romance. Haunting silence of the innumerable historic episodes, that found a setting here, still echo in the ruins. Every corner seems to have a story to tell. “You must have heard the story of Queen Padmini” said my driver with a toothless smile, as we whizzed past the lanes of this living fort. Chittorgarh, has been a part of history lessons, taken as an epitome of Rajput valor and pride. One of the oldest surviving forts of India, it was actually built by the Mauryas. Over centuries, it changed many hands, seen many battles, but its grandeur only increased with time. Even though it stands in decay today, it gives you a feeling of awe and magnificence of ages and periods of history, these buildings have seen.
Rana Kumbha Palace, though in ruins, still evokes myriad emotions in travelers.
Chittorgarh was once a fortified city and the capital of Mewar Rajputana (Southern part of Rajasthan), before falling into hands of Khiljis, then ruled by Gehlot and Sisodia dynasties from 7th Century AD until captured by Emperor Akbar. Today this stunning fort is a UNESCO world heritage site. This was my second visit to Chittorgarh, infact Chittorgarh was my introduction to Rajasthan, when I had combined it with Bundi. As I entered the gate (Pol), frames from my first visit, flashed before me. In a minute, Chittorgarh turned into a bouquet of emotions for me. Continue reading →
Buddhist temple Borobodur, a UNESCO Heritage site in Yogyakarta
An ancient city and the last remaining Sultanate of Indonesia, YogyaKarta has long nurtured the Javanese connection with the outer world and has been a cradle of art and culture. Old ways of life exist in Yogyakarta, side by side with bustling modernity and the city decorates itself with the symbols of traditions of Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam. From all night shadow puppetry, the age old extraordinary Buddhist temples of BoroBodur and the equally impressive Hindu ones of Prambanan, socially aware graffiti on the wall to the beautifully styled Batik designs; Yogyakarta, Indonesia’s second most visited spot, is a cultural palette on display.
The city comes as a huge relief from the urbane madness of Jakarta, narrow roads lined with trees, old buildings wearing a colonial touch, shops styled as pagodas, slow life, frequent smiles by strangers, alleys lined with themed restaurants, art cafes often buzzing with some performances, random music bands performing on streets and endless boards advertising batik designing lessons; Yogyakarta gives you a feeling of being in a different era.
Prambanan Temple, one of UNESCO Heritage sites in Yogyakarta (pic as appeared in HuffPost)
Suddenly, noise fills the air. A band of dancers and drummers had assembled, and no sooner did we get off the bus than they started beating the drums. After a moment’s hesitation, I breathed in the luxury of the moment. Train journeys are inspiring as they whisk you past landscapes that exist in real and in your mind. I was on the Golden Chariot, a luxury train in South India that runs across the state of Karnataka and ends its journey in Goa. The name of the train conjures up romantic images of historical tales, bejeweled scimitars and ornate thrones. History and heritage are its mainstay, but there are moments in the ‘wild’ in the tiger territory of Nagarhole Park and a relaxed time on a Goan beach with glistening white sands.
A centuries old town at the mouth of a river, nestled between two rocky hills giving you the impression of a wildwest, lakes on other three sides and reputed for its rock cut temples, Badami can take you back ages. I marvelled at the dramatic landscape of the region, as we made way through it. Red sandstone cliffs, with deep fissures, rugged mountainous profile, dusty roads and the mud walled houses splashed with ochre dust; all seeming like a leaf taken from Wadi Rum.
Badami had been the capital of the Chalukyan rulers, a dynasty that ruled over Deccan for almost 200 years between the sixth and the eighth centuries. Chalukyans were great patrons of art and architecture and during their rule architecture took a transition from rock art to free standing structural architecture.
Cave temples overlook the Adil Shahi Mosque: Religions had always coexisted
The first look of the Badami caves reminded me of a miniature and a rustier version of Petra. The lowest cave is dedicated to Lord Shiva, evident from the eighteen armed figure of a dancing god Natraj, at the entry point. Not an inch of space has been left untouched in the cave, murals, artistic columns, bejewelled deities, bracketed figures, angels and mythological tales on the pillars and roof make it an architectural wonder. And wonder all of this is monolithic, hewn deeply in the cliff. Up the steps, overlooking the greenish water body, Agastya Lake, are cave temples, consecrated to Lord Vishnu, depicted in his myriad forms. A sculpture sees him seated on a cosmic serpent, while other in his man-lion incarnation and yet a third depicts him raising his leg, a depiction of his yet another incarnation. The supporting beams have beam chain inscriptions, adorned with floral designs and sculptures of angels in close embrace on angles. The last cave is devoted to Jain Tirthankaras, gracefully sculptured, a tall sculpture of Mahavira on the ends and tales and philosophies carved on the walls. One glimpse and these caves seem an eclectic mix of art and spirituality.
Shiva cave temple
We made our move to our next stop, Pattadakal, where ancient temples built in divergent styles waited for us. This coming together of North and South Indian architectural styles is probably due to the geographical position of Badami in the centre of the Deccan plateau.
Road to Pattadakal
Everytime I have been to an ASI protected heritage site, I’ve wished ASI had done a better job with signage and storytelling. Badami comes as a surprise –proper signage and historical accounts, immaculate paperbacks on Badami (including ones of George Mitchell) at the counters and guides who can take you beyond the temple architecture to literature, philosophy and culture as it evolved in the Chalukyan dynasty over a millennium ago. Standing there, in an incredibly dense complex of ancient buildings, is very close to a feeling of walking through a frozen landscape of bizarre red mountains. An ancient complex, a group of eight temples, carrying a hint of Southern and Northern style of temple architecture, taking you back centuries into a world of mythology, rituals and philosophies some too incredible to even believe they ever existed.
Mosaic of ancient temples in Pattadakal (notice the distinct designs of the spires in the temples)
Standing on ceremony
As stories embrace you, you wink at the wit of builders and philosophers, smile at the brilliance of design of sculptures and dexterity palpable on every wall of these temples. Pattadakal stands out among its contemporaries and even from other historical structures, for its sheer sophistication.
On a bend of the River Malaprabha, some 22 kms from Badami, the village of Pattadakal served as a ceremonial site for the Chalukya rulers. The Chalukyan style is a unique synthesis of Nagara (northern) and Dravidian (southern) styles which was later adopted by the Hoysalas rulers, further down in south Karnataka. The hall interiors of the temples are divided into multiple aisles by rows of columns, will walls covered with carvings showing hindu mythological tales. The central aisle leads to a central chamber accommodating Lord Shiva lingam, with richly ornamented sculptures of guards on either sides of the chamber. Only Virupaksha temple is still used for worship. The profusion of carvings on the outer wall of Virupaksha is tantamount to a visual encyclopedia of Hindu mythology. All you need is someone to tell these stories.
Mallikarjun temple in Pattadakal
Sands of time
The demarcation between the Nagara style of architecture and Dravida style of architecture is very conspicuous in the shape of the spires or shikhara. In nagara style, the tower is shaped as a pyramid soaring upwards towards the heavens and in dravidan style the towers are stepped and richly carved. All eight temples show different styles of architectures; the use of many novel features like aisles, curvilinear spires, roofs with receding tiers, porch suggest that the temples were built as manuscripts to be replicated from. The imposing Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna temples, alike in design, built by twin sister queens of King Vikramaditya II to honour his return from a battle, are graceful examples of timeless architecture of that era. Both the temples sport an enormous gateway, numerous inscriptions on the walls, beaded columns, spell-binding frescos, ornate motifs, rings of elephants and horses at angles to mark the king’s victory, richly carved roofs with floral and animal designs and abundant murals from the epics. No doubt the architect was given the title ‘Tribhuvanacharya’ (the master of three worlds).
Interiors of Mallikarjun temple
Sculpture on the wall of Virupaksha temple
I took a step, looked around, once more eyeful of these stone temples, standing like red sandstone mountains, set against the backdrop of azure blue sky, river flowing on one side; everything frozen, centuries pass by as you ponder, amused by this sheer poetry in stone.
Badami is well connected with major cities like Hyderabad, Mumbai and Bangalore via railway network. To stay, there are budget lodges available in Badami city or consider Karnataka Tourism hotel Chalukya for a decent stay.
Pattadakal is approximately 25 kms from the main district, one can either take a local bus (usually crowded) or hire private taxi. Some shared autos also ply on the route but the frequency of these is a matter of concern. Badami caves are approximately 6 kms from the main city and shared autos and buses ply on the route.
Well let’s be true to self, one might return without any sighting in Kali Tiger Reserve. The dense foliage and the heavy undergrowth keep the treasure well hidden. But driving through this lush-green forest leaves you well satiated. Though spotting one would always be an icing on the cake, I would feel content hearing the sounds of existence of these indomitable animals against domineering jungle.
Safari in Kali Tiger Reserve
Endless knee down moments on an endless road to the forest, cold infused air and strained neck as it reacted to the sounds, the safari started with enough action to pack with. Watching the Sun, still draped in its soft orange hue in the vast expanse of dark green mountains, is a moment to go down the memory lane. There was no hint of human intervention in this stretch – all left to nature, a unique floral mosaic. Yes, there were activities; there were sounds, but all too hidden. But being in such a dense forest is itself indefinable. And amidst the cries of Chitals and the growls of Banette Macaque, coming from distance, you almost hear the jungle speaking amongst itself and with you. It is a desired sojourn from the hustle-bustle of life.
A pair of munia spotted on our way
The safari was for two hours in the morning. The mist laden air hadn’t shed its chill; the morning mist had lowered visibility, which was anyway restricted. While the famed Nagarhole and Bandipur of the south are known for rolling grasslands, which bolsters the chances of sightings, North Karnataka is dense, dark but equally and differently enchanting.
As we drove, my discussions about the Black Panther started with naturalist Prabhakaran. I had some ground idea about Black Leopard being nothing more than leopards with high melanin pigmentation. If you look closely, you can spot the rosettes markings (of leopards and something that separates leopards from jaguars). The black pigmentation provides a good camouflage in the dense forests of KTR. But I had a flurry of questions and he answered me patiently. So the take-away learning – inter-breeding between the normal and the pigmented leopards is common, hence a lot of inter-mingling of genes, which increases chances of survival of the species in wild. The sightings of this elusive creature are rare and prized, but they are increasingly increasing, which is a healthy trend and these sightings are happening from all over Karnataka now, more in denser habitats like KTR. This genetic aberration which proves a boon in dense forests of Kali, would be bane in open habitations like Nagarhole, where normal pigmentation will be preferred.
The drive was far from tame as it ribboned through dense to denser forests. And just when we had started to lose hope, we heard a rustle from behind the bushes; the vehicle slowed and then came to a halt. The expert ears stretched, eyes traveled in all directions, five pairs of eyes and ears, all in action to locate the source of sound. Pin drop silence. The sheer adrenaline rush in us had come alive. The forest hushed and then erupted in sound, the birds had come to action, we grinned with delight. “For birds this is like a riot” Prabhakaran added with a hint of both caution and excitement in his voice.
“Some large predator around” I whispered. A slight, assuring nod.
Birds have a whole set of acoustic stuff that is just associated with predators. My first thought went to a leopard as it’s more potent to harm birds than wild dogs or even tiger. Studies have shown that animals recognize alarm signals of other species. Some can even eavesdrop on one another across class. The predator could still be far and disinterested, unlikely in our situation, where we had heard some movement. And then Prabhakaran pointed at one end, there was certain movement behind the bushes, the rustle of leaves loud and clear. It was something as black and sly as shadow moving – a black leopard or a sloth bear. No idea, it didn’t come out. It had probably sensed us and changed its directions. We could hear it moving and a squawk of birds, sending out a warning call. We kept looking in that direction for a minute or two, our gaze held, as if it we were chasing a dream. So close, we consoled ourselves; we smiled at our fortune or misfortune depends on how you perceive this encounter. But sure, even if for a second, we all wanted to get held by the hypnotic charm of the enigma, black leopard.
“Any words, Prabhakaran?” I gleefully asked.
“Consider yourself lucky, you are going back with a story to tell” he smiled.
But deep I knew the story remains incomplete till the time I record a sighting.
Kali adventure camp by Jungle Lodges resorts is all about organic rush for untamed terrains – gorges, wild rivers, deep, dense jungles, frothing wild waters and tranquil evenings. Situated on the banks of River Kali, this JLR property inspires you to form a connection with raw nature. The camp is a perfect spot for white water rafting on River Kali. Other activities include Kayaking, Coracle Ride, Bird Watching, Nature Walk, Wild Safari, Sightseeing activities etc. Tariff ranges from INR 4,000 to 5,500 for twin sharing.
Old Magazine House is a favourite among birders, a place to be, to catch breath and evade the urbane madness to be among the winged denizens. Apart from birding, trekking, rafting and kayaking are on the to-do list here. Being on one solitary detour from the main road, deep in a jungle, Old Magazine house lends you the ‘never had before’ experience. Tariff is nominal at INR 2,120 (inclusive of the package).
It was pitch dark and I had come out in the open and followed the eerie glow of the lights from the other side of the River Kali, to get to the river. The water gleamed under the spell of the full moon. There was a sound of rustling leaves as if something was lurking behind the trees in the dark, a startling heart-stopping sound and then queer silence. My mind started making wild guesses – a civet, crocodile, some nocturnal bird or Malabar flying squirrel. Such moments are ephemeral and the transience of these moments makes them worth packing with you, a token of nostalgia that is destined to grow more memorable with repetition. I was in Kali adventure camp of Jungle lodges and resorts, next to Kali River in Dandeli and such moments were warranted.
A pair of grey hornbill spotted near timber area, Dandeli town
Even arriving to the camp, covering a tiring journey of hours through the forests, from Yellapur, has had its own picks – deers and a pair of civets had been a tick and some unrecognizable jungle sound had been captured. Though located in the Dandeli town, which hosts the largest paper mill in Karnataka, wildlife is never too far from this resort and my first intimation has been ‘There are crocodiles in the river’. Ah! So safari starts with coracle rides, quite a humble way for wildlife spotting. You must have understood, it was difficult holding me. And being allowed as an invader to enjoy the sounds of the jungle in the gathering of the night was both soothing and inspiring.
The next day I woke up early to the sound of a whistle, a similar sound which had woken me in Sharavathi camp in Jog falls. I knew the sound; it was a Malabar whistling thrush. The day was on and we set off for our bird watching session near the Dandeli Timber depot. A little quaint to know, but a splendid place to spot some rare and beautiful birds, including three species of Hornbill – Malabar greater Hornbill, Indian Grey Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill. My guide Vinayak told me that Common Indian and Malabar Hornbills differ in the shape of their beaks. Vinayak identified birds just by listening to their calls, I wasn’t bad too and proved my mettle as a fast learning birder by finding coppersmith barbets and the grey fronted green pigeon (both endemic to Western Ghats). And I was soon caught in the play as I lurked around mysteriously, trying to avoid noise, chasing the Golden breasted wood-pecker for one nice shot. The Hornbills proved better hosts and the plum faced parakeets, as playful as expected. Wood-pecker proved too nimble for me. The early morning sunshine was painting the forest in its golden light, piercing through vines and high canopy, it created magical panoply. As I looked around to catch this beautiful panorama, adroitly painted, my ears picked a familiar, teetering sound. I knew it, having met years ago; it was time for our second meeting. My limbs followed my ears. It was Shekharu – the giant Malabar squirrel, high on the canopy, just the ears and the bushy tail visible, turning for mili-seconds to give a fleeting glance. So familiar and so exhilarating.